According to the Chinese horoscope, we are now entering the Year of the Snake. I can not tell you what that means to you, me, or the humankind, but I can instead tell you something about the Chinese New Year's celebrations in Lima's China Town (Barrio Chino).


Today, suddenly remembering that today is the big day, me and my chino ( 'chino' in Spanish means Chinese person, but in Peruvian slang it also translates into 'guy' or 'dude') jumped into a taxi and hit the downtown Lima, Capon street more specifically. Lima's China Town is not a large area, in fact it is just Calle Capon and a couple of blocks around it. The Chinese immigrants to Peru settled down here back in 1850s. You can find Peruvian Chinese restaurants known as chifas, stores, acupuncture clinics, horoscopes, pastry shops, herborists and whatnot. Today, despite the striking heat, the street was crowded as everybody was there for the parade.
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Reporting from Calle Capon
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Year of the Snake -China Town Lima
People started to gather outside of Salon Capon dim sum restaurant, waiting and waiting...
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photo © Juan Martin Cabrejos
Until finally: firecrackers, smoke, clapping, whistling, noise, people pushing, drumming, police cars...The big dragon came out and everybody rushed forward to touch it, as this supposedly brings good luck for the forthcoming year.
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photo © Juan Martin Cabrejos
There is of course no point of visiting Barrio Chino without eating in one of the chifas around there. Today, due to the festivities, many places had long queues outside, but we finally found two seats in Chun Koc Sen. We ordered a few plates including shrimp and mushroom siu may (in the center), ha kao (on the left), min pao filled with chicken (the white 'ball' at the bottom) and fried pork (plus some steamed vegetables, but they arrived too late to make it to the picture).
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Photo © Juan Martin Cabrejos
The delicacy of the neighbourhood is a coconut bread, that is so popular that by the afternoon it had already ran out from many places. Finally we found a pastry shop that had one loaf left, to take home. I also popped into a small grocery store to buy some very healthy aloe vera juice (jugo de sábila) and pu-ehr tea.
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Coconut bread from barrio chino
The Chinese New Year coinsides with the traditional Peruvian carneval month. We had to quickly find a taxi to escape children throwing paint and water on by-passers! Oh yes, that is part of the tradition and it's fun, but I was wearing a white dress...
FELIZ AÑO, CHINO!
PS. Oh, and I have some news: I am starting a new series of posts, and there are going to be some interesting interviews coming up in this blog. Come back soon!
 
 
Last week I was in the city of Cusco, the capital of the ancient Inca empire.
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As the city is located in high altitude -about 3400 meters above sea level - nights can be quite chilly. Despite my Finnish origins, I am not well made to resist cold, and some extra wollen accessories were needed to keep my fragile body parts warm in the fresh mountain air.

After couple of days in Cusco my plan was to go to a four days yoga retreat in the Sacred Valley of Incas, Urubamba, near Cusco.

 Some rather cold nights freezing in my Converse sneakers made me feel that some warm footwear could come in handy in the Valley -or perhaps it was just an excuse to buy new shoes, who knows? Anyways, my eyes had spotted some nice looking boots in serrano (= from the Sierra, mountain region) style and I was ready to get myself a pair of those.

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The type of boots I mean (see picture at the left) were sold in many places in town, but as we were strolling and trolling on those old, cobblestone streets I found a small shop promising a pair of boots on measure. 

I chose the colors, the materials, all the details and Mr. Second Generation Shoemaker measured my feet for a perfect fit. I paid more than half of the price in advance, and we agreed that I would pop in next day to pick them up. 
Right on time before heading to the Valley. Perfecto!

...or that's what I thought!

Next day, I'm ready to pick up my boots as agreed. all excited to try them on.
But when we arrive in his workshop, Mr. Shoemaster is still working on the first boot and very, very drunk. In addition, he refuses to speak to us or give any explanation. He just stubbornly stares at his sewing machine. Ok...well...see you next week then? No choice, I guess.

I was quite upset as I needed the boots for the Valley. It's still hot in Lima, so I won't be wearing them there. I start to regret that I gave him the money in advance and I wonder if I will have enough time to pick them up after my yoga retreat.
But, this story has a happy end.

Coming back from Urubamba and before heading to the airport and back to Lima we pass by in the shoe shop.


There he is, sober this time and my boots are ready. When we ask about his behavior Mr. Shoemaker denies everything (typical!), but he gives me extra good service, packing carefully my old shoes as I decide to enjoy my new boots for the last couple of hours I have left in the mountains.

And the boots are perfect: they fit perfectly (well...they were made on measure, after all!) and they are so warm that I think I will be able to wear them in Finland, too.

After all, my hand drunk made boots were worth waiting.

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Posing with my drunk made boots on the streets of Cusco